Right before I met Kelly and Ryan in Thamel, Kathmandu, they had been out at an organic farm on the border of Chitwan national park. This park is home to tigers, leopards, elephants, rhinos, as well as very large reptiles such as pythons, boas, alligators and crocodiles. Being that Ryan and Kelly had such an amazing time at the organic farm, they decided that I had to experience it for myself. So, after traveling for eight hours on the top of a bus through the country sides, valleys, and mountains of Nepal, we arrived in Chitwan just in time to catch the fiery red sunset caused by the dust in the sky due to the lack of rains.
The next morning we woke up early to start work on the different plots of land dedicated to growing vegetables. First we would plow with hoes, then fertilize the plot with different composted organic material, and then plow again to make a completed mixture of fertile land. After taking a break for Dal Bhat (Nepal's staple meal) we would then go back out and plant seeds. We did this every day, finishing our work before 11am (it wasn’t meant to be too laborious). It was great though, because everything we worked hard to plant, we were eating for lunch and dinner. Well, technically some other volunteer planted it months before, but you get the idea. The volunteers to come would get to benefit from our labors.
Every morning we would watch the breathtaking red sun rise from the mist, do a little bit of work, and then take the rest of the day to explore our surroundings until the red ball of fire sank back down beyond the tall trees of the jungle.
Some days were exciting and full of activity, learning and fun, while other days were lethargic and lazy as we would finish our work and go up into the large bamboo tower (made by a previous volunteer) and read for hours, nap, play music and just enjoy being in the middle of nowhere here in Nepal. The contentedness of being out here is inexplicable. Life is simple, people are friendly and extremely hospitable, and there is no need to worry about time. I took my watch off the first day we arrived (a recommendation of Ryan’s) and it has honestly been so liberating to not have to worry about what time it is, what time work ends or what time lunch is or when we will go to the river. We just do what we want, when we want to do it. No expectations or anticipations of when or what time something is to happen. I thought Guam was laid back; Chitwan runs at a snail’s pace compared to Guam.
Don’t take all of this lethargy as a means for lack of excitement. While life on the organic farm may be as slow as the vegetables growing there, just beyond it is an enormous national park full of heart pounding thrill that will leave you wanting more.
One morning after planting some spinach, Pedam, our host, land owner and friend asked us if we would like to go for a little walk to see if we could spot some rhinos in the jungle. As my jaw dropped, my head began no nod vigorously. Rhinos!? A chance to see wild rhinos in their natural environment without a fence, cement enclosure or zoo attendants! I was all about this “little walk”.
As we headed out past the laborers of the rice fields hacking away diligently and almost mechanically, the geography around us went from flatlands to green, enormous jungle very quickly. Normally a Chitwan National Park entrance fee is around $15 US; equivalent to a little under a week’s worth of food and lodging here in Nepal to give you an idea of how inexpensive it is to live or travel here. Luckily, Pedam lives on the outskirts of the jungle, where paying off the local park official twenty rupees per person (twenty five cents) is more than enough. Being so close to the jungle does have its downsides though, as I found out that many of the jungle’s boa constrictors, pythons and other creatures are quite often found residing up in attics, under porches and just about anywhere else they can hide. I saw an example of this first hand as one of the locals handed a twenty pound bag to Pedam. Pedam nonchalantly handed the bag to me and told me to follow him deeper into the jungle. Not thinking much of the bag, probably just some food for the animals or something, we came to a large swampy clearing. Pedam asked for the bag and then carefully placed it on the ground, telling us to stand clear of striking distance. Striking distance? Why would I need to stand clear… right then an eight foot long, twenty pound, brown and black python slithered right out of the bag, and disappeared into the brush. We had walked hardly ten minutes and already encountered an enormous, deadly snake. I was eager to see what else this jungle held.
As we continued deeper and deeper into the jungle, Pedam studied rhinoceros tracks and was positive we would encounter one. Pedam told us that if we were to encounter a rhino that we would have to be very careful and watch for the signs: Head up meant safe. Head down and not eating grass meant run for your life because it is probably about to charge you. Pretty simple. He also said that while you are running, try to zigzag and head for a hillside or uneven ground. Optimally try to climb a large tree that the rhino would be unable to trample down. His advice sort of got more serious and detailed as he went on. I guess a rhino charging is a regularity here and Pedam has seemed to master fleeing from them.
All of the sudden one of Pedam’s friends ran past us yelling something in Nepali. Immediately my heart began to pound as Pedam softly said “rhino” in a very serious tone. We could hear the rhino trampling the thick brush and trees. Then there was silence. Holding our ground, we waited, listened, searched for any clue as to what the rhino going to do next. We couldn’t even see the thing yet the jungle was so dense. Slowly we then began to inch forward, trying to make as little noise as possible. Pedam told me to climb a large tree to get a better look. Up I went, and there he was. The size of a small SUV, this dominant rhino stood in all his glory with his two inch thick armor hide, tree trunk legs and massive horn between his glaring eyes. There was no doubt he saw me, but turns out this was a good thing, because now that he knew what he was up against, he immediately felt no threat. He began grazing on the tall grass, as if to mock my impotence. He knew there was nothing I could do to hurt him. There was no question as to who was the dominant creature here and we both knew that.
Climbing down from the tree, Pedam allowed for a closer look now that we knew it was safe (as safe as being twenty yards away from a wild rhino can be). We each knew our tree we were to climb, or hillside to run to if he were to get annoyed of us and charge. Slowly we inched closer and closer, trying to get the best possible picture of this amazing creature. I honestly could not believe how big he was. There is no exaggeration when I say he was the size of a Volkswagen Bus. Every stick that broke under my foot as I tried to get even closer, he noticed and would pause from his chewing, look at me right in the eyes and let out a large breath of air as if to say “you’re pushing it buddy”. With a trembling hand I was able to get a few good shots, and one shaky video, but never has my heart ever pounded so hard. I ever so carefully began to retreat, being sure to keep my eyes on him at all times in case he charged.
Letting my heart take a break, we then headed for the river to take a nice, relaxing dip. As we were on the tall banks we could see elephants walking on the banks, transporting large bushels of hay and rice. These large cargo transporters were Chitwan’s main way of moving heavy material about. We then saw large shadows in the water and the occasional protrusion of eyes looking about. Crocodiles… so much for giving my heart a rest. We climbed down the steep slopes to an area where the water had receded a bit, allowing us to walk along the shoreline. Pedam assured me that as large as the crocs were, they wouldn’t attack being that they were only seven footers. Seeing young children frolic about and swim around was reassuring, but there was still no way I was going in that water. It was absolutely serene though as the sun was beginning to fall in the sky. It was so beautiful there along the river. Truly a scene I will never forget.
The rest of the time spent in Chitwan was great. We would go about our regular farm work, learning about different vegetables and how they grow, and then we would hang out with the locals, hearing stories of different adventures in the jungle. I even got the chance to milk a buffalo. Not quite the buffalo you may have pictured roaming the North American plains. More like a water buffalo. I’ve never milked a cow let alone a buffalo. Let’s just say it was a bit awkward for the both of us, but good old Bessy put up with me, although when she was done, she let me know abruptly by trying to kick me in the face. Luckily I dodged it and was able to save the milk as well from those giant huffs.
Next we are off to a town called Polkara, which is supposedly one of the most beautiful cities in all of Nepal. After spending a day or two there we are off to India!
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